Puglia: Cliff Jumping off the Heel of Italy’s Boot

Written By Ahren Brunow

The south of Italy during the summertime - endless sunshine, turquoise seas, and lots and lots of people. When we were booking a trip to the south of Italy, we had our sights on Sicily or Sardinia but given we were looking for a trip at the end of August and it was the beginning of August, prices were astonishingly high; we decided to look elsewhere. A friend of ours mentioned that Puglia (the heel of Italy’s boot) was a beautiful region so we looked into it and after a few pictures, we were sold.

Reading more about Puglia, we discovered that it is where Italians go on vacation and that August is the peak of the season. Many, many, many articles explicitly stated that Puglia is best visited before or after the summer season (June or September). But given how desperate we were for time off, we decided it surely couldn't be that busy if we booked the last week of August and the first week of  September. We were wrong. The first week was utter chaos. Even in small villages, it was beyond busy. At first, we were getting a bit frustrated because finding parking, a restaurant, a beach, or anything for that matter, was difficult and time-consuming.  There were people everywhere, but after a few days, we mellowed out and got more into the swing of things. Once our trip moved into September, it was a completely different place - empty and spacious. In hindsight, we wish we had booked our two weeks only in September but c'est la vie!

My advice, if you are thinking about going to Puglia and you enjoy nature without tons of people, go in June or September. I can assure you that September is more than hot enough to sunbathe, swim in the sea, and enjoy the final throes of summer.

When it comes to getting around in Puglia, you need a car. It is a vast region with a lot of historic cities and villages that are quite far apart. In order to see a good chunk of what the area has to offer, a car is essential or else you will spend all of your time on public transit. We rented with Locauto as they had the best prices and, in the end, we had no problems.

The people of Puglia are friendly and while many folks only spoke Italian, it was no problem getting around. Between broken English and creative gestures, you can get everything you need without issue. I found Whatsapp plus Google Translate to be the best way to communicate with restaurants and tour operators. Generally, I found that the number listed on Google Maps was connected to Whatsapp and often people responded back quickly. This is how we booked all of our restaurant reservations (a must-do if you want to eat) and day trips.

And with that, here is my list of things to do in Puglia.

1. Cliff Jumping

When researching Puglia, I saw that the east coast on the Adriatic sea had an embarrassment of riches when it came to cliff jumping spots and that was what ultimately sold me. One of my passions in life is jumping off of cliffs into water. I am deadly afraid of heights, but at the same time, I get a real high from scaring the crap out of myself. These were my favourite spots.

Grotta della Poesia

This is a cliff jumping mecca. First, you have cliffs where you can jump into a pool of water protected from the sea by a cave. Then, you can swim through said cave to the Adriatic sea. Once you get out to the sea, you can see the many other wonderful places to jump from - small cliffs, medium cliffs and then cliffs for people who are adrenaline junkies.

Il Ciolo

This spot is tucked under a bridge between two cliff steep cliff faces. Finding parking can be a challenge but it’s worth the effort. When you walk down the stairs from the road to the water, you can enjoy the backdrop of the mountains. We saw some rock climbers going up one wall so that’s another activity worth looking into if you enjoy that kind of thing.

Most of the Adriatic coastline in Puglia is rocky which makes it great for cliff jumping but not so great for lounging by the water and this place is no different. The spot I jumped from is located directly beneath the bridge, sandwiched between the cliffs. It was late in the afternoon when we went so there wasn’t much sunlight left but the waning light and shadows made a beautiful scene to take in between jumps.

Grotta dei Pescatori

This was an accidental find. After unsuccessfully trying to go to Il Ciolo the first time around, we started aimlessly driving and from the road, I saw what I thought was someone jumping from a cliff. Naturally, this caught my attention and we decided to get a closer look. Lo and behold, we found an oasis. This place was a little off the beaten path which made it much less busy. We found a place by the sea where there was a rock couch and we set up shop for the day. In addition to great cliff jumping, there was a bay where you could easily swim from one side to the other which I took advantage of to burn off the innumerable pizzas I had eaten on the trip.

Grotta Verde

Right as we pulled up to Grotta Verde, it started to torrentially rain - one of the few moments when the sun wasn’t out. Luckily, there was a welcoming canteen where we took refuge and drank a few beers while we waited out the weather. They also had delicious panzerottis that I remember fondly :) Close to the shore, there is a cave you can swim into and sure enough, the light makes the water look green and hence the name - Grotta Verde.

Cala dell'Acquaviva

At Cala dell'Acquaviva you can experience layers of water with vastly different temperatures due to the cold water streams from the mountains. It was a lot of fun jumping off the cliffs and experiencing a shock from the cold only to be immediately rewarded with hot-tub-like water. When we arrived in the afternoon, the cliff on the north side was soaked in sunshine so we basked in its glory and enjoyed the views of the lush hills and mountains.

2. Enchanting Cities

Lecce

Lecce during the magic hour is a feast for your eyes. The city has a myriad of white facade buildings that glow spectacularly when the late afternoon sun hits them. The old town is breathtaking with its baroque architecture and narrow alleys. When the afternoon transitioned to evening, it became a charming and inviting place with many of the restaurants and bars putting out candles and turning on their patio lights to create a very romantic atmosphere.

The Urban Oasis, the hostel we stayed at in Lecce.

The backyard of the Urban Oasis - hence the name :)

Tricase

Did anyone else watch Call Me By Your Name and want to immediately book a trip to Italy? I certainly did - along with wanting to drink endless amounts of Apricot juice. All this to say is that Tricase in the evening is the quintessential vibe that Call Me By Your Name so beautifully captured. Tricase is a small and quaint town. The main square has beautiful architecture and there are several bars and restaurants where you can order food and drinks while taking in the sights and sounds of the square.

Ostuni

Most of the cities and villages in Puglia feature buildings that are every shade of white and beige which creates golden cities in the afternoon. Ostuni is perhaps the pinnacle as not only does the city have a lot of strikingly white buildings but it is also nestled on the top of a hill which creates an almost make-belief Disney-esque city. We enjoyed aperitivo (cheap drinks and snacks) and walked around the city enjoying the architecture.

Gallipoli

Gallipoli’s old town is actually an island just off Italy’s mainland which is what makes this place unique. The old town is so tightly packed with buildings and historic churches that the narrow alleyways can only be traversed on foot or motorcycle. You can walk the sea wall around the entire old town in fairly short order and enjoy the sights of the sea, Gallipoli Castle, and its port. There is a beach in the old town where you can go for a dip within this ancient city.

Bari

After being in the south of Italy and spending the majority of our time in small villages, coming back to Bari felt like we were in NYC. It had big city vibes and there was a sense of hustle and bustle along with lots of horn honking, although it is Italy - home to some of the most passionate and creative drivers. We only spent one short evening there, but there was a lot of great architecture and we enjoyed walking around the old town stopping for snacks and drinks along the way.

3. Boat Trip Around the Southern Tip of Italy

After cliff jumping and lying on beaches for days on end, we started to crave something different. Talking to our Airbnb host, he recommended a boat trip around the southern tip of Italy. We looked around at different companies and we landed on Seasalento (located in the Santa Maria di Leuca marina), mainly because they were one of the few operators with a strong enough motor to head out to sea given the conditions. It was a windy day and the sea was rough. It was not a smooth ride as we crashed through endless waves but I enjoyed the rollercoaster ride; Kasia, not so much. Our captain didn’t speak English but he made sure to always re-explain everything in Italian to Kasia and me so we didn’t miss out on any important information. Unfortunately, the second explanation usually didn’t result in much more understanding but thanks for trying, Michele!

Our first stop was a cave with many boulders that you had to climb over in order to access a pool of cold water at the back supplied by mountain streams. Just enough sunlight manages to creep into the cave to light up this cold-water pool into a beautiful green colour. It’s a great place to practise Wim Hoff! Our second stop was a small cave that’s entrance was all but covered by the sea. To enter, you had to swim underwater through the entrance and then you were in this secretive cave protected from the rough sea.

At the tip of Puglia, the coastline has steep cliff faces and the only way to enjoy them is from the water. The cliffs are huge and give you the sense of feeling small and serve as a humble reminder that the world is much bigger than us.

4. Beaches

Spiaggia di San Pietro in Bevagna Taranto

At this beach, you can swim from the Chidro River into the Adriatic sea. The river is very cold relative to the warm sea. Being a cold-water loving Canadian, I didn’t find the river impossibly cold so I was able to get in without too much discomfort but the Italians were generally not interested. Once you get to the mouth of the river and the warm seawater starts to mix with the river, you can dive to the bottom and all of a sudden the cold water disappears and you enter hot-tub-like water.

Polignano a Mare

Within the city centre of Polignano a Mare is a beach nestled into a small cove. On both sides of the cove, there are steep cliff faces with buildings on top. The views are spectacular. It’s one of those places where it’s easy to be a good photographer.

On the day we came, the sea was rough and the waves were rolling through the narrow entrance to the cove creating a natural wave pool that was an absolute blast to swim in. If you are not a strong and careful swimmer, it can be a bit dangerous not just because of the waves but because there are many big rocks and boulders at the bottom. With that said, I felt safe using my feet and goggles to locate any hazards.

On the left side of the beach, there is a cave you can walk through and on the other end is a rock platform that is just above sea-level which makes the perfect diving platform to get into the sea or to simply take in the views. I thought there would be cliff jumping here but I didn’t see anyone jumping although it might have been due to the rough water. This beach is a must-visit and, if you like excitement, come when the sea is rough to enjoy a natural amusement park!

Lover’s Beach

A lot of the beaches we came across in Puglia were either right next to a road, full of people or both. As someone who likes personal space and quiet, I wasn’t a big fan of these spots but at Lover’s Beach, you will find a secluded, peaceful and picturesque beach with great sand and nice water for swimming.

To access the beach, you need to walk through a pine forest for about 5 minutes which is probably one of the reasons the beach is sparsely populated. The pine trees are quite aromatic so if you do some deep breathing, you can experience aromatherapy free of charge. On the other side of the forest are sand dunes, a beautiful beach and the sea. It’s the perfect place to spend a day but given the location, there aren’t any vendors close by so be sure to pack food and beverages.

5. Restaurants

When it comes to food, I wouldn’t say there was anything that blew our minds but there is lots of nice food to be had. Of course, it is Italy, so you can eat A LOT of great Neapolitan pizza (I think I ate nearly 20 in 14 days - whoops!) as well as pasta but there isn’t a lot of variety so after a week, you start to crave something different. For a few nights, we cooked at home to take a break from Italian cuisine.

Trattoria il castello di Momo

Our Airbnb host, Alessandro, recommended this restaurant in Lucugnano. They made beautiful pasta and seafood but the most impressive part of this restaurant was the setting. The restaurant is located in an old fortress that is beautifully lit in the evening to create an excellent atmosphere. Add in very nice service and you get yourself a nice evening out.

La Rustica

When we landed in Bari, we drove straight to Lecce for our first night. After a nap, we woke up and looked for a restaurant and right next door to our hostel was La Rustica. They made excellent pizza that definitely was some of the best we had on the trip.

Taverna del Porto

Taverna del Porto is a seafood restaurant and inside, they have an ice counter displaying the fresh-caught fish of the day. You can point at the exact fish you want and, viola, 10 minutes later, you have a fish cooked on your plate. The seafood is prepared simply but the results are excellent and the freshness is unparalleled. They also have an extensive wine list.

The restaurant is next to the sea but there is a road in between. They had a patio across the street so you could eat outside and be next to the sea but we didn’t book far enough in advance so we had to sit inside. Inside was still great as the restaurant is cozy and has the kind of low lighting-vibe that I enjoy. The staff were welcoming and accommodating. I can easily say this was the best restaurant we visited during our trip. It is a bit more expensive but not outrageous.

Puglia is a beautiful region in the south of Italy. With the many historical towns and villages, great cliff jumping on the east coast, sandy beaches on the west coast, crystal clear water and endless sunshine, it is a place worth visiting but - go in June or September so you can enjoy the beauty without the sea of people.

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Ahren Brunow
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